Church of the Intercession on the Nerl — church building
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Church of the Intercession on the Nerl

  • 2 min read
  • 56.196° N 40.561° E
  • UNESCO World Heritage

Interesting facts

  • According to legend the white stone was war booty from Volga Bulgaria, but analysis of the stone points to quarries near Moscow.
  • The walls continue about 3.7 metres down inside the artificial hill, so the masonry reaches more than five metres below the present ground.
  • The man-made hill on which the church stands covers roughly 2,300 square metres of the floodplain.
  • For centuries scholars overlooked it: the church was left out of an 1834 album of monuments compiled for Emperor Nicholas I.
  • Systematic study began only in 1858, when the diocesan architect Nikolai Artleben inspected the building.
  • Excavations led by Nikolai Voronin in 1954–1955 found traces of the galleries that once wrapped around the church.
  • The carved reliefs that once decorated the interior were lost during renovation work in 1877; only the outer carvings survive.
  • The church was closed in 1923 and returned to the Orthodox Church in 1993; it appeared on a Soviet postage stamp in 1977.
  • Its silhouette has inspired modern copies, including a replica church completed in Austria in 2018.

Why it is worth it

The Church of the Intercession on the Nerl stands alone in a water meadow near Bogolyubovo, a short way from Vladimir, and it is often called the most beautiful church in Russia. The art historian Igor Grabar went further and ranked it among the great monuments of world art. It is a small building — a near-square block about ten metres on a side, with three apses and a single dome — but its walls are drawn upward so that the whole seems slimmer and taller than it is. Its architects sacrificed interior space to achieve that effect, and the church is cramped for a service; from outside, it looks weightless.

It was built in the 1160s by the builders of Prince Andrei Bogolyubsky, whose palace stood a little over a kilometre away. Tradition, recorded in a late life of the prince, holds that it was raised in a single season in memory of his son Izyaslav, who died of wounds after a campaign against the Volga Bulgars. The site was then the meeting point of the Nerl and the Klyazma, where boats turned toward the princely residence, and the church served as a kind of gateway to the Vladimir lands. Because the meadow floods every spring, the builders set it on an artificial hill about three metres high over deep foundations; in high water it still appears to float.

The white limestone walls are carved with reliefs that reward close looking. The central figure on three facades is King David, enthroned and playing the psaltery, surrounded by lions, birds, griffins and the faces of maidens; a band of blind arcading with slender columns runs around the walls. The church has changed remarkably little — the onion-shaped dome dates from 1803 and the original galleries are gone — and it nearly vanished altogether when, in 1784, a local abbot was given permission to dismantle it for building stone, a plan abandoned only for lack of money. It is part of the White Monuments of Vladimir and Suzdal World Heritage Site, inscribed in 1992.

Getting there

The church is in the Bogolyubovo meadow about 1.5 km from the settlement of Bogolyubovo and about 12 km from the centre of Vladimir. The walk from Bogolyubovo crosses open meadow and is part of the experience. Ivanovo South Airport (IWA) is about 86 km away.

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From the encyclopaedia

The Church of the Intercession on the Nerl is a Russian Orthodox church and a symbol of medieval Russia. Dedicated to the Intercession of the Theotokos, the church is situated at the confluence of the Nerl and the Klyazma in Bogolyubovo, Vladimir Oblast, 13 km (8.1 mi) north-east of the medieval princely seat of Vladimir on the Klyazma. For centuries, the memorial church greeted everyone approaching the palace at Bogolyubovo. In spring, the area would flood, and the church appeared as if floating on water. The church itself has not been substantially altered, with only the dome's shape being slightly changed, and the addition of porch-galleries in the 12th century, which were rebuilt in the 18th century and then demolished. The walls are still covered with 12th-century stone carvings. The church is built in the Vladimir-Suzdal school.

Wikipedia · CC BY-SA 4.0

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