Sanctuary of Truth

On the point of Laem Ratchawet, at the northern edge of Pattaya, a building of dark carved timber rises straight from the shore of the Gulf of Thailand, its spires climbing to about 105 metres. Every surface of the Sanctuary of Truth — gables, pillars, ceilings, the figures crowding its roofs — is covered with hand-carved wooden sculpture, and the whole structure is made of wood, joined largely by traditional Thai carpentry techniques instead of nails. It is often described as the largest wooden building of its kind in the world, part temple and part palace, with a cross-shaped plan of four great halls under steep tiered roofs.

The sanctuary was conceived by Lek Viriyaphan (1914–2000), a Bangkok businessman and patron of Thai culture who also created the open-air museum of Ancient Siam near Bangkok and the Erawan Museum with its giant three-headed elephant. Construction began in 1981, and the carving has continued on site for decades since, so that the building has grown piece by piece in the hands of generations of craftsmen. Its forms are inspired by the temples of the old Siamese capital of Ayutthaya, while the ornament blends Hindu and Buddhist imagery from across East and South Asia. Several hardwoods give different parts of the building their own colour and grain: Xylia xylocarpa (mai daeng), takhian, used for the main posts and expected to last for centuries, and teak among them. The interior covers some 2,100 square metres and is carried on about 170 columns.

The building is meant to be read as a philosophical text about human life and the role of faith in sustaining the world. A four-faced Brahma crowns the roof, a symbol of respect for father, mother, teacher and king. Each of the four halls carries its own theme: the northern hall is given to Guanyin and images of liberating wisdom; the southern hall to the sun, moon and planets and their influence on people; the western hall to the classical elements of earth, water, wind and fire, presided over by Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva; and the eastern hall to the family and the cycle of life. Pattaya itself grew from a fishing village into one of Thailand's best-known seaside resorts on the eastern shore of the gulf.

Getting there

The sanctuary stands at Laem Ratchawet in Na Kluea, Bang Lamung district, Chonburi province, about 4 km north of central Pattaya. U-Tapao–Rayong–Pattaya International Airport (UTP) is about 35 km away in a straight line.