St Michael's Mount — castle
Image by LeeChandler from Pixabay

St Michael's Mount

  • 2 min read
  • 50.117° N 5.478° W

Interesting facts

  • A short underground railway, dug by miners around 1900 to replace pack horses, still hauls goods from the harbour up to the castle and is too steep to carry passengers.
  • When the 1755 Lisbon earthquake sent a tsunami to Cornwall, the sea at the Mount rose about two metres in ten minutes and kept surging for five hours.
  • A brass footprint at the top of the landing stage marks where Queen Victoria stepped ashore from the royal yacht in 1846.
  • Historians trace the story of the archangel appearing to fishermen to a medieval borrowing from the legend of Mont-Saint-Michel, not to any early local record.
  • The Mount is one of several candidates for Ictis, the tin-trading island described by the Greek historian Diodorus Siculus in the 1st century BC.
  • Henry VI granted the Mount to the newly founded King's College, Cambridge, in the 1440s, but Edward IV handed it back to Syon Abbey in 1462.
  • Perkin Warbeck, who claimed to be a lost English prince, occupied the Mount in 1497 during his bid for the throne.
  • The island's population peaked at 221 in 1821, with three schools and three pubs serving sailors; the 2011 census counted 35 residents.
  • John Milton's elegy Lycidas ends with the Archangel Michael keeping watch from the Mount, echoing old sea-lore of a great stone chair on its summit.
  • After the Second World War the battleship HMS Warspite was beached near the Mount and, when attempts to refloat her failed, was broken up where she lay.

Why it is worth it

St Michael's Mount rises out of Mount's Bay off the south coast of Cornwall as a steep granite island crowned by a castle and chapel, joined to the town of Marazion by a causeway of granite setts that the sea covers twice a day. Walking out at low tide over the wet stones, with the tower growing larger ahead and water on either side, is a large part of the magic; when the tide is in, small boats carry people across instead. Seen from the shore at dusk, the silhouette of the rock and its buildings is one of the great sights of the Cornish coast.

The Cornish name, Karrek Loos yn Koos, means "the grey rock in a wood", and may preserve a memory of the forest that once covered the bay before the sea rose over it, roughly around 1700 BC. Local tradition holds that in 495 fishermen saw the Archangel Michael standing on a ledge of the rock, and from the 12th century the island was a Benedictine priory linked to Mont-Saint-Michel in Normandy, its twin across the Channel. Another legend makes it the home of the giant Cormoran, slain by a Cornish boy named Jack – the origin of the tale of Jack the Giant Killer. The Mount was also a fortress: in 1473 the Lancastrian Earl of Oxford seized it and held out against Edward IV's forces for some five months.

In 1659 Colonel John St Aubyn bought the island, and his descendants, later the Lords St Levan, have lived in the castle ever since, gradually turning the monastic buildings into a family home. In 1954 the family gave most of the Mount to the National Trust while keeping a very long lease on the castle. Around the medieval church at the summit, gardens have been built on terraces cut into the granite on the sheltered side of the rock, where the warmth stored by the stone and the mild climate let exotic succulents and plants from far warmer countries flourish above the sea. At the foot of the rock is a small harbour and a village, which grew into a busy seaport after the harbour was improved in 1727.

Getting there

The causeway starts in Marazion, about 4 km east of Penzance, the nearest town and the terminus of the Cornish main line, with trains from London Paddington. The nearest airport is Cornwall Airport Newquay (NQY), about 50 km away. Access on foot depends on the tide, with boats running when the causeway is under water.

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From the encyclopaedia

St Michael's Mount is a tidal island in Mount's Bay, near Penzance, in Cornwall, England. The island is a civil parish and is linked to the town of Marazion by a causeway of granite setts, passable between mid-tide and low water. It is managed by the National Trust, and the castle and chapel have been the home of the St Aubyn family since around 1650.

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